What's in the bag?

It's one of the best seasons of the year right now, and we're all feeling the urge to splurge, with advertisements left, right and centre, and money is flying out of our pockets so fast, that we forget about our overdrafts and chase that high of buying PRESENTS (I said it)... but, what if we considered what we're buying, just a little bit more? 

Despite the many preconceptions, sustainability can also be quite cool and fashionable. As I found out this week when I started the horror of christmas shopping and stopped by Lush.

Now, amid the walls lined in multicoloured gift wrapped boxes, all containing different gift ideas, with different prices and different sized, I found that I was after a unique present, something that not everyone had. Whilst trying to decipher whether the glittering white £18 ribboned body product box was going to do me any good, I was directed to the "scarf wrapping" after stressing I wanted a present that was unique and special. And she was right.

Lush are big very big on non-animal testing for the products and indeed, come from an ethical stand point, so there is no suprise that sustainability is one of their ethos as well. Cleverly done, the brand allow you to pick a vintage scarf to wrap your chosen products in. The scarf does cost but not much, and when chosen correctly, can be used as a fashion accessory for a bag, around the neck as part of an outfit, or even in the hair.

The scarf was then twisted into a series of knots, and you could indeed pick what kind of shape to have the scarf made into - I chose a bag shape to hold the products inside. The products I chose were also labelled with name, ingredients and how to use.

Now for unique present wrapping, this definitely stands out. The idea of having the scarf as the wrapping but also being able to use as an accessory is smart thinking, and does indeed change the idea of sustainable fashion, showing how reusing previously owned items for other uses can redefine the original object.

What if this christmas, as consumers, we find new and exciting ways to wrap our presents? The newspaper your parents collect, the packing from online websites, the scarf you don't really like to wear anymore, all can be used and changed (think paper + ink + staining) to redefine the unused objects concept, saving both our pay checks and the environment. 

Sustainability - reuse, resell, redefine. 

Sustainable Sass.

I'm afraid this is one of those moments yet again where I sincerely apologise for having not written anything for over a month.... and you guessed it, deadlines. Well good news, I'm back (whilst I have the chance). 

As a Fashion Design student, I have also had the opportunity in the last month to really open my eyes. Through all the gunk I have being sent to my inbox about a new 50% discount, or cookies popping up on the side of my browser on the new misguided dresses that I HAVE to apparently have for £15, I have opened up my eyes nice and wide to the antichrist of the fast fashion circus.. you named it, to sustainability. 

I wrote a post a while back about the current state of the fashion industry and indeed, how it is speeding up - consumers are wanting things quicker, they want it now, meaning designers are churning out designs quicker than they can get their morning Starbucks in rush hour. That is only 2% of the reality of the fashion and textiles industry right now. With emerging brands such as Missguided, publicdesire, boohoo, even zara and h&m, the fashion and textiles industry is working at top speed in order to get this weeks looks into stores and to their consumers, at an affordable, comfortable price. Sounds good right? Hold on just one minute. 

Have you heard of Global warming? Global warming is caused by the earth's atmosphere indeed, warming up, affecting weather patterns, water levels and environmental growth. Global warming is caused by the "greenhouse effect", in which the earth traps heat radiating from earth towards space - with CO2 acting as a main cause of this trapping. Now burning fossil fuels creates this CO2, such as burning coal, oil and gas. 

And here's the key part. The fashion and textiles industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions, and remains the second largest industrial polluter, second only to oil with fast fashion indeed speeding up this pollution. 

In context - you have the christmas party coming up, you need a dress for next week. It's the end of the pay month and you have about £20 to spend - but you want to look like Kylie Jenner, with the shoes to match. So you order a dress online that's £7.50, reduced from £15. You then buy the matching shoes for £12. The dress just about makes it through the christmas party, with the hem falling apart as you're dancing, and your heel snaps off as you get into the Uber. Well, they were cheap, so I guess it doesn't matter if you throw them away, you kind of expected them to fall apart anyway. 

We've all done it, I myself... and here's the situation explained. The reason the dress and shoes are so cheap, is because the fabric is cheap - the fabric used is a cheap synthetic that uses twice as much oil to create, and double the amount of water waste is also created.. ergo, CO2 production and global warming. Throwing away the cheap dress and shoes also creates CO2 pollution - the items go to a landfill site and are left to rot away, creating CO2 and methane pollution. Kind of regretting that £20 now a little right? And because of the low price tag, the items are bought 10 x more, doubling the pollution. 

This is one of the considerations that it is important to take as a consumer. We all love to shop.. the thrill, the feeling of having something new to wear, the adrenaline when you find THE DRESS in the sale and you get the last size 8. But it's also our responsibility as consumers to do what we can to help slow down global warming. 

Want to buy a new shirt because you're feeling the boyfriend look this season and know a nice cotton shirt is going to feel great under THAT jumper? Don't buy a cheap cotton shirt online. Have you heard of organic cotton? The production of Organic cotton needs less pesticides in production (hello CO2) and reduces water waste by up to 50%. Organic cotton is a little more expensive but it feels great, it lasts longer and it reduces harmful gas emissions. When you get a hole in your Jamie jeans and you're not sure how you can wear them out? Save them. Keep them for summer. Create a pair of high waisted shorts with them... or better yet, donate or stitch it up yourself. It's just a hole right? 

As a design student, I have come to the realisation that there are far bigger things going on in this world than what we realise, and the danger of our own living environment is higher than ever - in terms of my contribution, this year I am focusing on creating a sustainable collection of garments that aren't only sustainable, but also stylish. As a consumer? I'm trying my best to consider what I buy and think about what lays behind the item and what the bigger picture is. After all, it's another excuse to invest in higher quality pieces rather than cheap throw aways that waste my money. 

So, don't throw away - save. Don't buy cheap - invest. simple huh? 

photo credit - Georgia Sillitoe http://www.georgiasillitoe.com/

Harnessing with Amelia Stephenson

For my second designer that I chose to collaborate with, I wanted to work with designs that were a little unconventional but yet no less eye-catching and exciting. Cue the work of Amelia Stephenson. 

A contour design student from London, Amelia Stephenson is fast-tracking herself towards a 'lingerie-meets-fashion' forte, and showing that harness' are not just for the dark and dangerous. Using silver chains, elastic, metallic features and leather, the harness' are perfect for when you feel you want to add a bit of a twist to a look - from cotton dresses to jersey basics (have I said already how I love my jersey?), the body accessories that Stephenson creates are the 21st century girl's way to accessorize, and are the girl's best friend when it comes to moving from a day to night style. 

From a design background of Agent Provocateur, Fleur of England, Nichole de Carle and freelance work with start-up brands, it's no surprise that Stephenson herself is working on her own design brand Amelie Louise London, that has an edge of sexiness against delicacy and femininity - a speckle of BDSM to a white shirt, a smidge of leather strapping with a pair of suit trousers, Stephenson brings allure back to styling with attention to detail and an amplified design aesthetic. 

So you've got that hot date coming up and feel like you just can't wear the same old GAP white shirt again? You're looking for something to add to the LBD you've chosen (again) to wear to Cirque? Now is the time to think outside the box and Amelia Louise London is your ticket to beating the norm. 

instagram - @amelielouise.london

email - amelia.stephenson@allingerie.co.uk

London Fashion Week with Tessa Spielhofer

This week, I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity by Jungle Magazine (https://jungle-magazine.co.uk) to contribute to their online journal as London Fashion Week writer - through this opportunity, I also chose to work with two new designers to create a few looks for the week. One designer I was given the opportunity to work with was accessories designer Tessa Spielhofer, and her incredible Davos bag and Nyon bag.

 The first bag I chose to work with was the beautiful Davos bag - this accessory definitely stood out to me as I felt it matched my own personal style - minimal yet with a slight twist, casual but with elements of sophistication.

The bag itself is of an envelope structure, allowing the user to fold the opening to a magnetic secure point, which holds the opening in place until the user intends to open the bag. At the sides, the bag can be used with a removable chain strap, which I found was great for when I had a lot to carry (fashion week note - prepare yourself with the multiple levels of magazines, leaflets, press releases, popcorn and water bottles you'll end up with at the end of the day). It has an incredible sophisticated leather handle across the lower end of the bag which is great to use whilst in clutch form, with golden lion studs - a symbol chosen by creator Tessa as a symbol of strength, a small embodiment of what Tessa sees her ideal customer to be - strong, independent, fiery and brave. My favourite feature inside the bag was a little piece of material that can be used to clip your house keys on - many a time I've turned my bag upside down outside my house door at 9pm trying to find those little pieces of freedom and have just been asking for an easy way to not lose my keys... and this is it.

Now, the combinations of material make this bag, and make it as luxurious as it appears. A combination of leather and python, it screams luxury and indeed, positions itself against other shoulder bags on the market, by being the "cool-girls" go to for a night out at Sketch, to brunch at the Dalloway Terrace. I felt incredibly stylish using this bag for the shows and interview I had lined up for that day and felt that, in a basic outfit of a black T shirt and white jeans, this was the perfect bag to really dress up the look.

For day two, I chose to work with the Nyon bag - I wanted to work with a small bag to take the weight of carrying heavy bags on my shoulder, and this was the best decision I made when it came to choosing an accessory.

For when you're running to get coffee and you only need your keys, cardholder and phone, this is the perfect bag - and it has one secret that not many bags on the market have. A reversible closing flap. With two material pallets of metallic leather and python, and beautiful braiding around the outside of this little treasure, this bag gives a twist to the traditional saddle bag shape - a little something to brighten up a minimal outfit (and I'm a pro of those!). What made this bag for me was the attention to detail in the flap, the idea that the modern woman doesn't want to just own one bag, and does have multiple outfits to work with, and multiple occasions to attend.

It's a bag that gives an opportunity of option to an outfit.

Now, the reason I like to work with new designers is the excitement of discovering new, clever pieces that not everyone has, and discovering how much they can add to my wardrobe or a look that is made up of items that aren't necessarily designer or up-to-date ; it's the opportunity to mix up pieces of old and new and to create an exciting outfit.

For me, discovering Tessa Spielhofer has been a bonus to London Fashion Week and her beautiful accessories definitely deserve attention - for their craftmanship, for the attention to detail, and for the ability of working well with the modern day woman's wardrobe.

tessa spielhofer contact:
instagram - https://www.instagram.com/tspielhofer/
website - https://tessaspielhofer.com/

Pick your Poision.

okay, it's not what you think - I'm not about to write about an 80's movie with american gangsters trying to work out how they're going to kill their boss, well not yet at least. It's 8.23am in London and I've had a particular post on my mind for about a week, something that I feel relates to the majority of women out there. 

Perfume. That little bottle of toxic poison that all women (and men) carry in their day bags to work, their clutch bags to the bar, their oversized travel bags to their family house. The little bottle that defines who you are, what kind of character you are and is one way we send out our mating scent to those around us - well, not in a natural way. It is one of the hugest markets in the world, used by many fashion and cosmetic companies as a way to develop their brand as well as create an identity, all through particular flavours that have certain connotations when different levels of ingredients are combined together. a concoction of tastes, of styles, of aromas that glisten flirtaciously in those little glass bottles on our window sills, waiting to be picked up at the start of the morning as we rush from the shower in our towels, thinking of how we want to look that day. An intelligent play on materialistic want and self representation that no one seems coming until they're out of their front door on their way to work. 

It's incredibly interesting to pull on the factor of what a consumer wishes to portray themselves as when they choose a perfume, and it's a strong mechanism to almost create a lifestyle through a particular scent so that those that feel they can closely relate to the overall image that a perfume creates, will buy into one particular brand and their created aroma. 

Case study 1 - me. 
The best way I can describe this interesting observation is indeed looking at myself. My first ever perfume when I was 16 was Miss Dior Cherie - a small pink glass bottle with a metallic bow around the nozel, that smelt like flowers and strawberries. It was my first ever perfume bought for me from my parents and was, at the point, a good start to what characteristical path I would set myself upon - I was young, naive, finding myself and becoming a young woman.

When I was 18 I bought Dior Poison. Now this transition in scent says it all - the bottle was dark red and black, and the scent was dark and deep, reminding me of cherries and liqourice, and was as strong as poision. It was my way of drawing attention from others around me when I wore it, a scent that stung the noise and made you want to find out more - at this time of my life, I was finding my own identity, and my own style, was discovering what a social life was and indeed, my own independence. 

Now, at 22, I wear Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium. Lighter than Dior Poison with a slightly more floral scent, it is a perfume that combines what I feel, two levels of my character - femininity and softness against a confidence and independence. A mature scent that still is youthful and girly at the same time. 

So when you next pick up that little glass bottle of the shelf in Selfridges, or spray a little something something onto a tester card when you pass the beauty counter on your way home, think to yourself. Why is this little glass bottle of poison attracting me so much? What is it about me that relates to this significant aroma that one brand is trying to sell to me right this minute? 

part 3 - my home, London.

London. 

-currency- pounds, key areas - Shoreditch, Soho, Oxford Circus, Bond Street, Covent Garden, Hackney, Dalston, Clapham Common,  Transport -Uber, Tube, feet. 

Dress Code. 

When it comes to London ladies and gentlemen, fear not if you are one to stand out from the crowd. As the originator of punk queen Vivienne Westwood and tortured artisan Alexander Mcqueen, London is the home of creativity and expression of identity. Opposed to Paris and New York, there is a certain carefree attitude when it comes to dressing, where those who have lived in London and call it their home, and unafraid to dress how they want - whether you're a minimalist, a thrift-shop goddess, a kardashian-influencer, a metal head, a sports-wear fanatic, a Vetements rebel, a blogger in the making, an east-ender inhabiter, the population is made up so many different styles and dress codes, you will always fit in, even if you're trying to stand out. 

As someone who is an official Londoner (I moved from Surrey to London around four years ago, and have never looked back), I have personally felt that the key with London and its unspoken dress code (paris has its black and navy, New York has its casual wear), lies in the styling and presentation of the look you are trying to achieve... I don't think once have I not thought about what I'm wearing and how it works, and neither have the majority of my friends, but maybe that's just me and who I surround myself by. 

I have also found that London is also very good for providing affordable and accessible options and alternatives to fashion trends - and we are also BIG embracers of online shops and instagram accounts that sell these alternatives (misguided got the current trends down to the 'T'). No longer can we not afford the Vetements graffiti jeans, we have pretty little thing and Topshop offering us the DIY alternative. As a fashion capital, we are also unafraid to create fashion ourselves - from creativing a clutch out of left over leather, to making a plastic necklace made out of paper ties, to cutting up our jeans and painting our denim jackets, London is a very clever community when it comes to saving money but still looking fashionable.

Food. 

Just as diverse as fashion, London is also the place for experimental food - little cupcake shops down colourful alleys? check. Kingley court made of vietnemese, italian, healthy/organic, Indian, Sushi, American restaurants? check. No matter what kind of food you are feeling at 10pm at night after a work shift, the world is your oyster - well, central London is your oyster. 

We are the patron saint of trying to step out of the box when it comes to building a lifestyle, and, similarly to America, we are also avid lovers of health and fitness - particularly in East London, you will be able to find the kind of food that can give you your instant protein kick, or even your daily iron injection with green veg smoothies and takeaway boxes. Companies have also developec themselves enough to deliver any kind of food or takeaway or even home cooked healthy meals right to your doorstep (uber eats and deliveroo, what did we do without you?) We even have organic vegetables and fruit markets (borough market, you the best), so you will never feel limited to buying in a supermarket when it comes to groceries. 

There is no traditional food anymore when it comes to London - like the community in which the city holds, Londoners are aware of other cultures and only embrace every kind of food that can be offered. Pilgrim Pizza anyone? 

Travel. 

Finally, the one key area out of the three cities that I feel is the most developed - how we travel around our mother city. Now not only can we walk, which London is small enough so that you can get from Kings Cross to central London in 45 minutes, we also offer the Boris Bike - free cycling for 30 minutes to the next bike dock, taxis - the fare is quite high but they know London like the back of their hand, ubers - from the average uber pick up to arriving in a Mercedes, every individual possesses the uber app on their phone and now with a business account, the firm is set to develop as a work environment transportation system, rather than just the taxi firm you order on a night out, and the tube. 

In regards to the tube, I have found this train system probably the best out of the three cities, with trains being clean and staff being helpful and understanding, with the routes being simple and understandable - when the tubes do fail as well, there is an increased bus service which provides extra support for commuters. And now, similarly to New York, the night tube has also been launched on key lines at the weekend, so Londoners who both party and work hard, can still get home easily and safely. 

so, out of the three, which city would you pick? For me, of course, I'd pick London. 

part.2 - The Parisian Romance.

Paris. 

currency - euros, key areas - Hotel De Ville (thrift shops galore), le Marais (coffee), Champs-Elysees (shopping), Canal St.Martin (brunch), Montmarte (shoreditch-esque), transport - uber, metro, bike. 

Dress Code. 

So by the time I arrived in Paris, I had been chewed up by the "coolness" monster of New York and spat out as a lower Manhattan gal, baseball cab-sweatshirt combo and all. Low and behold, I touched down in chicness central in Paris, where carelessly careful dressing was perfected to a T. 

To begin with, the cool girls wore a uniform - an understated, multi-textured uniform of black. It was almost necessary to wear black if you were in fashion, and it was easy - in the constant rainy weather, the only colour you would want to chuck on in the mornings was black.. as well as a little navy to mix it up. I learnt to appreciate an accessory that was made well and wouldn't be necessarily the most brightest, eye-catching one on the shelf. I learnt the benefit of black flat leather boots (and of course trainers) and found that a simple white shirt, with a pair of black jeans and black jacket with black boots was enough for me to be taken seriously... and I can safely say, the baseball cap rarely came out. 

I stopped wearing makeup, similarly to new york, and stopped doing my hair - Paris, after all, was all about the "I promise, I actually did wake up like this" look, despite the time spent thinking about the outfit, and taming your hair into a messy pony tail. I also began to realise the benefits of dark eyeliner for nights out drinking red wine (I'll come on to that next). It was indeed the city of chic, and soon enough, I was being told by those I met "you always seem to wear black!" 

Lifestyle. 

Now, unlike New York, time was to be enjoyed in Paris and you definitely did not need to waste a single minute rushing around. Everything was at a level of calm, enough for you to appreciate your surroundings and think about your day-to-day errands (well, enough time to get a lie in in the mornings). Even turning up to lectures was not regular, with some lessons not starting until an hour after scheduled time because we were still waiting for other pupils to arrive. Food shops close at 2pm on a sunday, so expect to not have food in your cupboards for sunday, if you're hungover and would rather stay in bed. 

The culture and history of Paris is also incredibly celebrated within the city, with as many different museums as you would like, all being free for students of the EU - one in particular, Palais de Tokyo, was my favourite, with the overall experience transporting you into another world. There is also so much to take in when visiting Paris - from the neighbourhoods to the buildings to the monuments to the hidden away cafes, even the people (particularly the fashion). Although it is definitely not as fast-paced as New York and London, there is definitely a lot to explore (note: not everything can be fitted into a two day visit without fully appreciating the city and its culture). 

Food. 

So as much as New York is known for its brunching, Paris is known for its coffee and wine.. we'll discuss food in a bit. I was never a huge red wine drinker, until I touched down in Paris town. Bars are open until 1am on weeknights, with a small glass of red wine (and not a bad tasting one either) costing around 4 euros, thats about £3 for us brits... and you can bet your bottom dollar that you can sit outside a nice bar, surrounded by fellow parisians, facing out into the road, and watch time go by. And it seemed that a glass of wine, even if you fancy a lighter white wine or rose, was indeed cheaper than a cafe creme - a latte for us. Un ver du vin was an easy excuse to see your girls, whilst meeting the "city chic" criteria for a friday night. 

And also, coffee. Now, having just jumped ship from one of the most coffee-central cities in the world, I was slightly disappointed with the difficulty of finding a good coffee, in a regular sized mug, that wasn't Starbucks - and how uncool it was to be seen drinking Starbucks at an arts university. Even though I STILL bought my Starbucks whilst on the metro home, it was only after really searching and hunting down coffee shops launched by English or Australian ex-pats, was I able to sit down with a mug of coffee (The Broken Arm, Honor Cafe and Holy Belly Cafe, you fed my coffee cravings well)... note : to all those looking for the parisian experience, a double shot expresso from a parisian cafe style on numerous city corners is the best option, for those who want to hunt down the perfect thought-through coffee blend, find the above.  

Not forgetting, food. One thing I found was that I learnt to appreciate doing picnic-style eating - sitting by the river Seine with bread and cheese and a can of coke, was one of the loveliest experiences I had with my friends from Denmark. It is also very difficult to eat from stores like "Tescos" or "Sainsburys", with a "Marks and Spencers" only being one in some of the main metro stations. The best wait to eat a good lunch, for less than 10 euros, was indeed at a localy family-run Boulangerie (bakery) where you could find any large, home-cooked, freshly baked sandwich with a filling of your choice - cheese with lettuce and tomatoes, yes please! (+ additional crusty bread). 

Travel. 

So unlike New York, the metro in Paris did not run through the night, it rain up until about 12am on weeknights, and 1.30am on weekends (friday counts as a weekend). You also have the "RER" metro, which travel to the outskirts of Paris and out of Paris, as well as in the in-city lines that are number 1-14 depending on the route... it is also a hell of a lot easier to understand than New York, as well as being slightly cheaper for a monthly student pass. Uber was just about as cheap as London and just as reliable - remember, alle' is to go, 'ici' is here, and 'se bonne' is that's good. That is all you need. I also found that a lot of friends did indeed cycle everywhere, with a similar system to Boris bikes existing in Paris, and traffic not being as crazy as it is in New York and London, it was safe enough to cycle. 

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If you want a city to live in where you can relax and appreciate culture and history, this is the city. I personally found that I relaxed massively whilst living here for three months, and found that I gained a different way to approaching my own life. Paris is the city of Romance, of beauty and of life, and will always be the most calming of the three from this past year.